Plaka, Milos

Name: Elysium Transfer Milos
Address: Pera Triovasalos, Milos, South Aegean, 848 00, GR
Telephone: +30 698 348 5847
Price range: €€

Plaka is the capital of Milos and the place everyone goes for sunset. It is a proper Cycladic village built high on a ridge, all whitewashed walls and lanes too narrow for cars, with a view that runs the whole length of the bay below.

The sunset

The view most people come for is from the church of Panagia Korfiatissa, on the western edge of the village, and from the old castle above it. The climb to the castle is short but steep and rocky, ten to fifteen minutes on uneven ground, and worth it. Arrive around forty-five minutes before sunset if you want a spot on the wall rather than behind someone’s shoulder.

The village itself

Plaka rewards wandering with no particular destination. The lanes are stone-paved and knot together in a way that makes a map close to useless. There are small tavernas with tables set out in the alleys, a handful of good shops, and the Archaeological Museum near the entrance to the village. Neighbouring Trypiti, a couple of minutes away, has the Roman-era Ancient Theatre and the catacombs.

Why you do not want to drive up

This is the practical part. Plaka was built long before cars, and it shows. The road up narrows sharply, the village parking is a small area that fills by early evening, and on a summer night cars end up abandoned along the approach road with people walking the last stretch uphill in the dark. Coming down afterwards, in the dark, on unfamiliar narrow roads, is nobody’s idea of a good evening.

A transfer solves it: dropped at the top of the village, collected at an agreed time and place afterwards. It also means whoever would have been driving can have a glass of wine with dinner.

Getting there

From Adamas or the port: about 10 minutes
From Milos Airport: about 15 minutes, €30
From Pollonia: about 20 minutes, €30
From Sarakiniko: about 15 minutes, €25

Practical notes

Wear real shoes. The castle path is loose rock and the village lanes are polished stone.
Book dinner in advance in July and August. The tavernas with a view fill up.
Bring a light layer. The ridge catches the wind and it drops cool once the sun goes.
Klima is below. The famous row of coloured syrmata boat houses sits at the bottom of the hill and is best in the late afternoon light, just before you head up for sunset.